Orthodox
Christianity in Almaty
When people think of
Kazakhstan, Islam is usually the first religion that comes to mind. That was my
assumption as well. Yet living and studying in Almaty revealed a religious
landscape that I had not expected: Orthodox churches not tucked away as historical
remnants, but visibly present and quietly active within the life of the city. I
was often struck by how many Orthodox churches I encountered in the city alone,
and by how deeply embedded they felt in its everyday life.
Walking through Almaty,
large cathedrals -most notably the Ascension Cathedral- sit naturally within
the urban fabric, shaping the city just as much as mosques, parks, and
Soviet-era buildings. Orthodoxy here does not feel marginal or imported; it
feels rooted.
A
Short History of Christianity in Kazakhstan
Christianity in
Kazakhstan developed primarily in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when
the region became part of the Russian Empire. With this expansion came Russian
Orthodox Christianity, which remains the most prominent Christian tradition in the
country today. Other Orthodox communities, including Georgian Orthodox
Christians, as well as Oriental Orthodox communities such as the Armenian
Church, are also present, though in smaller numbers.
During the Soviet
period, religion faced systematic repression. Churches were closed, demolished,
or repurposed, and public expressions of faith were discouraged. Yet
Christianity endured. In Almaty, diverse communities -Russians, Ukrainians,
Georgians, Greeks, and others- remained within the broader Orthodox Church,
preserving their faith through difficult decades while gradually adapting to
Kazakh culture and society.
Ascension
Cathedral (Zenkov Cathedral): Faith Built to Withstand Earthquakes
While many Orthodox
churches are traditionally built of stone or brick, Almaty is distinctive for
its remarkable wooden cathedrals. The most famous of these is the Ascension
Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, located in Panfilov Park in the very
heart of the city, not far from the bustling Green Market. The cathedral was
constructed between 1904 and 1907 by engineer Andrei Zenkov, following a design
by architect K. Borisoglebsky.
What makes this
cathedral truly extraordinary is that it is built almost entirely of wood,
primarily Tien Shan blue spruce, a tree native to the mountains of Kazakhstan.
It is among the tallest wooden churches in the world and is listed as a
monument of national significance. In a city where earthquakes are common, the
cathedral has stood firm for more than a century.
There is a saying among
locals -believers and non-believers alike- that the cathedral was built without
a single nail. While this is more legend than verified fact, it reflects the
deep admiration people feel for the building. Despite earthquakes and profound
political and social upheaval, it has never collapsed. During the Soviet era,
the cathedral, like many churches, was used for secular purposes; today, it has
been fully restored and returned to the Church, once again serving as a living
place of worship.
Churches
in a Multi-Faith City
One of the most
striking aspects of Almaty is the natural coexistence of different religions,
particularly Islam and Orthodoxy. Orthodox churches are often located close to
mosques, and this proximity does not generate tension. Instead, it feels
entirely normal - simply part of daily life.
Kazakhstan is a secular
state, yet Islam and Orthodoxy remain the two most widely practised religions.
Although Islam is numerically dominant, relations between the two communities
are generally marked by respect. From my own experience, I have seen people of
different faiths participate in Orthodox traditions. On the feast of Theophany,
for example, even non-Orthodox residents often take part in the traditional
cold-water immersion, illustrating how faith, culture, and community frequently
overlap.
Faith,
Migration, and Belonging
For many communities in
Almaty, churches are more than places of prayer. They are symbols of survival,
migration, and belonging. The Greek community, in particular, became part of
the wider Orthodox Church after displacement during the Soviet period. Their
story forms part of a broader narrative of suffering, perseverance, and faith -
one shared by many people living in Kazakhstan today.
Final
Thoughts
Almaty challenges the
notion that Kazakhstan is religiously one-dimensional. It is a city shaped by
multiple histories, beliefs, and communities. The enduring presence of Orthodox
Christianity -embodied above all in churches like the Ascension Cathedral- demonstrates
how faith has survived empire, repression, earthquakes, and constant change.
The peaceful coexistence of churches and mosques reflects not only tolerance,
but a shared civic life that continues to shape the city’s character.
Xenia
Popov
