A City of Wood and Faith

 

Orthodox Christianity in Almaty

 

When people think of Kazakhstan, Islam is usually the first religion that comes to mind. That was my assumption as well. Yet living and studying in Almaty revealed a religious landscape that I had not expected: Orthodox churches not tucked away as historical remnants, but visibly present and quietly active within the life of the city. I was often struck by how many Orthodox churches I encountered in the city alone, and by how deeply embedded they felt in its everyday life.
 

Walking through Almaty, large cathedrals -most notably the Ascension Cathedral- sit naturally within the urban fabric, shaping the city just as much as mosques, parks, and Soviet-era buildings. Orthodoxy here does not feel marginal or imported; it feels rooted.
 

A Short History of Christianity in Kazakhstan

 
Christianity in Kazakhstan developed primarily in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when the region became part of the Russian Empire. With this expansion came Russian Orthodox Christianity, which remains the most prominent Christian tradition in the country today. Other Orthodox communities, including Georgian Orthodox Christians, as well as Oriental Orthodox communities such as the Armenian Church, are also present, though in smaller numbers.
 

During the Soviet period, religion faced systematic repression. Churches were closed, demolished, or repurposed, and public expressions of faith were discouraged. Yet Christianity endured. In Almaty, diverse communities -Russians, Ukrainians, Georgians, Greeks, and others- remained within the broader Orthodox Church, preserving their faith through difficult decades while gradually adapting to Kazakh culture and society.
 

Ascension Cathedral (Zenkov Cathedral): Faith Built to Withstand Earthquakes

 
While many Orthodox churches are traditionally built of stone or brick, Almaty is distinctive for its remarkable wooden cathedrals. The most famous of these is the Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, located in Panfilov Park in the very heart of the city, not far from the bustling Green Market. The cathedral was constructed between 1904 and 1907 by engineer Andrei Zenkov, following a design by architect K. Borisoglebsky.
 

What makes this cathedral truly extraordinary is that it is built almost entirely of wood, primarily Tien Shan blue spruce, a tree native to the mountains of Kazakhstan. It is among the tallest wooden churches in the world and is listed as a monument of national significance. In a city where earthquakes are common, the cathedral has stood firm for more than a century.
 

There is a saying among locals -believers and non-believers alike- that the cathedral was built without a single nail. While this is more legend than verified fact, it reflects the deep admiration people feel for the building. Despite earthquakes and profound political and social upheaval, it has never collapsed. During the Soviet era, the cathedral, like many churches, was used for secular purposes; today, it has been fully restored and returned to the Church, once again serving as a living place of worship.
 

Churches in a Multi-Faith City

 
One of the most striking aspects of Almaty is the natural coexistence of different religions, particularly Islam and Orthodoxy. Orthodox churches are often located close to mosques, and this proximity does not generate tension. Instead, it feels entirely normal - simply part of daily life.
 

Kazakhstan is a secular state, yet Islam and Orthodoxy remain the two most widely practised religions. Although Islam is numerically dominant, relations between the two communities are generally marked by respect. From my own experience, I have seen people of different faiths participate in Orthodox traditions. On the feast of Theophany, for example, even non-Orthodox residents often take part in the traditional cold-water immersion, illustrating how faith, culture, and community frequently overlap.
 

Faith, Migration, and Belonging

 
For many communities in Almaty, churches are more than places of prayer. They are symbols of survival, migration, and belonging. The Greek community, in particular, became part of the wider Orthodox Church after displacement during the Soviet period. Their story forms part of a broader narrative of suffering, perseverance, and faith - one shared by many people living in Kazakhstan today.
 

Final Thoughts

 
Almaty challenges the notion that Kazakhstan is religiously one-dimensional. It is a city shaped by multiple histories, beliefs, and communities. The enduring presence of Orthodox Christianity -embodied above all in churches like the Ascension Cathedral- demonstrates how faith has survived empire, repression, earthquakes, and constant change. The peaceful coexistence of churches and mosques reflects not only tolerance, but a shared civic life that continues to shape the city’s character.
 
Xenia Popov